
RJ Lines is the chef-owner turned consultant best known for Summer Hill’s (NSW) One Penny Red. In this Q&A, he reflects on his path from bartending in the ’90s to earning a chef’s hat, his inspirations and where he sees Australia’s food culture heading.
What first sparked your love for food, and how did you get your start in the industry?
It’s probably a bit clichè, but my love of food probably came from my mum at an early stage. She is a fantastic home cook and always baked treats and cooked delicious meals for the family. By the time I was 16, I was hosting dinner parties at home
I actually started my journey as a bar tender at the basement jazz club in Circular Quay in the very late 90’s, which was an incredible environment to work in and really opened me up to the world of hospitality. I would bartend by night and cook at a whole foods cafe by day in Bondi
What’s been your journey so far – from your first job to where you are now?
I was a bar tender for quite a few years, but always cooked at the same time, both in Australia and Europe and the U.K.
After a few years, I made the decision to focus on cooking and returned to Australia. I put myself through TAFE on one of my days off while working at Longrain in Surry Hills in Sydney. It was an incredible experience – I worked my arse off for a few years and really learned “how” to be a chef in a big, busy kitchen working alongside so much talent
After Longrain in 2007, I joined the recently opened Glebe Point Diner and stayed with Alex Kearns over the years, with an overseas sabbatical in Italy until I opened the Neutral Bay Diner with Alex in 2010, in my first head chef role.
In 2014, I finally took the plunge and opened my own restaurant and bar, One Penny Red, in Summer Hill (Sydney), which was an incredible journey for 10 years, including being awarded a chef’s hat by SMH.
After One Penny Red in 2024, I started my own consulting and catering business, which is what I am running now.
What have been some of your greatest achievements along the way?
Definitely opening my own business within 10 years of being a qualified chef and also being awarded a chef’s hat along the way.
Outside your property/properties, what are your current favourite food joints?
I absolutely love Ante in Newtown. Ester in Chippendale is also a favourite and one of the best restaurants in the country, hands down.
Which chefs and cuisines inspire you most – past or present?
I have never really idolised any chef ; however, recently I have become a fan of Ben Shewry and his approach to cooking and business, which is totally inspiring. Cuisine-wise, I think Italian and Spanish are my favourites, owing to their focus on beautiful, simple produce.
How do you think Australia’s food culture has evolved in recent years?
I think there has been a return to casual dining and produce-driven food with a focus on quality ingredients, really showcasing beautiful Australian produce, which I think is amazing.
Any exciting food trends you’ve tried at home – or snuck onto the menu?
I think the first time I heard of corn ribs, I rolled my eyes. However, after putting them on the menu at one of my venues (with curry leaf butter), I am obsessed. So moreish. The melted curry leaf butter has also become a staff snack favourite, dribbled on chips.
And finally, what do you love doing when you’re not in the kitchen/at the venue?
Whenever I’m not hanging out with my family, I try to jump on the motorbike and get out of the city. It’s my selfish happy time.