
Sundays at the bazaar with her mum in Kolkata, India, first taught Ahana Dutt that food could bring joy. Years later, after braving through some intense hotel kitchens in India and a long stint at Firedoor, she’s channelled that memory into Kolkata Social – a Sydney-based Bengali restaurant that is reflective of Ahana’s past and present.
What first sparked your love for food, and how did you get your start in the industry?
My mum worked a lot, so Sundays were special. We would go to the bazaar together and she would make a myriad of dishes for lunch. I think when you see people around you enjoy something so much, it instils a similar feeling in you.
What’s been your journey so far – from your first job to where you are now?
I started in the pastry section of a five-star hotel in Kolkata. Once I moved to Mumbai, I worked there at the Westin and Taj Lands End. It is intense, but you learn loads. The bakery departments of these hotels are like a well-oiled machine.
I moved to Sydney in 2014 to study at Le Cordon Bleu, after which I worked at Aria Catering and a bit with the Keystone group before joining Firedoor. The 6.5 years spent there were such a catalyst for the chef that I am today. Working in an open kitchen where you have to talk to guests also massively built my confidence.
I then went on to head chef at Raja, where for the first time I got to cook Indian food. It was so well-loved but unfortunately had to close within nine months.
Which brings us to Kolkata Social – a true reflection of who I am and where I come from. It’s a very small restaurant, with an even smaller kitchen. We really don’t have anything fancy. We don’t even have a coolroom. But there is some delicious and thoughtful food coming out of that kitchen (if I do say so myself).
What have been some of your greatest achievements and challenges along the way?
I think the kitchen team I built at Raja and the team I have at Kolkata Social are my biggest achievements. It is incredibly difficult to find people who have your back and genuinely care. All of them have bought into my vision. There is immense trust. What more could I ask for?
Challenges are inevitable, even though in Australia, I think I have been pretty lucky. It would be very easy to sell out and just do what is expected of you. But I don’t want to do that.
If I am creating something, there has to be integrity in it. It has been difficult having to constantly fight to intentionally represent Indian food, which is why working with Shaun [Christie-David] has been a blessing.
Again, there is a lot of trust there, which creates room for autonomy.
Outside your property/properties, what are your current favourite food joints?
Porcine. Without a shadow of a doubt. Also, Bazaar and Bar in Brookvale. It’s a trek, but the potato kulcha is worth it.
Which chefs and cuisines inspire you most – past or present?
I love Korean food. There are a lot of similarities between Korean and Bengali food- using hyper seasonal ingredients, love of rice, the “tang” and “jhol” similarities- I could go on. Also, Mexican food with the different salsas and the creative ways they use chillies.
Right now, I’m keen to learn how to make Hong Kong-style crispy roast chicken. My friend is on a holiday there currently and I have major food envy.
How do you think Australia’s food culture has evolved in recent years?
It’s been a very slow evolution. There is definitely more diversity now, but still not enough.
And finally, what do you love doing when you’re not in the kitchen/at the venue?
I love to read, but my main addiction these days is going to see musical theatre. It is a bit of a problem.
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