Born in Bordeaux and trained in Michelin-starred kitchens across France and Canada, Hervé Borghini now leads the pass at Le Méridien Melbourne. In this profile, he talks to Crumb Wire about family, resilience through COVID, his produce-first philosophy and why Australia’s evolving food culture keeps him inspired.

What first sparked your love for food and how did you get your start in the industry?

Being born in France, food was always a part of life. My earliest memories are in my grandmother’s kitchen near Bordeaux – watching her cook, tagging along to the market, asking questions and sneaking in chances to help. I loved her food and even more, the time we shared.

At 14, I did a week-long placement in a Michelin-starred restaurant near my parents’ home. I worked doubles: prepping in the morning, doing lunch service, a short afternoon break, then straight back into the intensity of dinner.

The chef was hard but fair, the pace was relentless – and I was hooked.

What’s been your journey so far – from your first job to where you are now?

That experience led me to Bordeaux Culinary School, where I studied for five years. It wasn’t just cooking – we learned the full spectrum of hospitality: service, marketing, finance and front desk. From there, I gained roles at Relais & Châteaux hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants in the Côte d’Azur and Corsica.

While studying, I took every opportunity to work weekends, Christmas and New Year’s. Those hours paid off, as my mentors recommended me for opportunities abroad. Soon, I was in Montreal, working at a Relais & Châteaux restaurant, falling in love with Canada’s produce and landscapes.

I staged across continents to broaden my food horizons, realising French cuisine was just one piece of an incredible global puzzle. Eventually, I became Executive Chef at the luxury Omni Mont-Royal Hotel in Montreal, leading its reopening after COVID. I also spent time in Australia at the hatted Captain Moonlite on the Surf Coast.

In 2023, I returned to Melbourne to take the helm at Le Méridien Melbourne, where I now combine Mediterranean training with global influences and local produce.

What have been some of your greatest achievements and challenges along the way?

Like many chefs, COVID was a huge challenge. Hospitality became unstable overnight and I stepped back into other work to support my family. But the time away confirmed the kitchen is where I belong.

My greatest personal achievement is my family – my wife and our two children. 

Professionally, one highlight was reopening the Omni Mont-Royal after COVID. With no senior chefs left, I had to rebuild from the ground up: recruiting, training and finding solutions daily. It was tough but deeply rewarding.

Outside your property, what are your current favourite food joints?

I love simple street food – places that focus on one thing and do it brilliantly. Sharing that with my family makes me happiest. That said, I’m spoiled at home: my wife is a fantastic cook and family meals are always the best.

Which chefs and cuisines inspire you most – past or present?

I’ve been lucky to have great mentors throughout my career. Watching Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations was also hugely inspiring – the food, the travel, the culture. Alain Ducasse has influenced me with his precision and ability to elevate simplicity with creativity. And in Australia, I really admire Josh Niland; the way he’s created a new universe around seafood and sustainability is remarkable.

How do you think Australia’s food culture has evolved in recent years?

I didn’t grow up here, but from what I’ve seen, Australia’s food culture has matured rapidly. It’s diverse, drawing on influences from Asia, Europe and beyond, while developing its own confident voice. The mix of cultures creates exciting possibilities and new horizons.

Any exciting food trends you’ve tried at home – or sneaked onto the menu?

I’ll admit, I don’t chase every trend. At home, my wife does most of the cooking and I love helping her. For me, the “trend” that matters is timeless: using good produce, preparing it with care and minimising waste. That philosophy guides me both at home and at Le Méridien.

And finally, what do you love doing when you’re not in the kitchen/at the venue?

I like to disconnect from the real world: spending time in nature, going for long walks, playing golf, or climbing. Most of all, I treasure time with my kids before they’re too old to want to hang out with me. Time moves quickly and I don’t want to miss it.

Find more food and drink features on Crumb Wire.