When Jay Yi-Ming Huang cooks, it’s about more than flavour. Every plate at Melbourne’s Taiwan Village carries stories of home, friendship and the people who shaped his love for food. In this Crumb Wire profile, he talks about the bonds built through cooking and why the value of authenticity.
What first sparked your love for food and how did you get your start in the industry?
Food gave me friendship and friendship gave me purpose. Cooking became my language of friendship – the moment I saw someone smile while enjoying my dish, I knew a bond had been created.
After years of leading kitchens in Taiwan, I brought that same philosophy to Melbourne, where every plate at Taiwan Village carries the same purpose: to create connection.
What’s been your journey so far – from your first job to where you are now?
When COVID hit in 2020, I started cooking meals for people who couldn’t return to Taiwan at the time. What began as comfort food during lockdown for a few quickly spread by word of mouth – suddenly, everyone wanted to try my cooking.
I went from operating a ‘ghost kitchen’ at home to running physical restaurants. I opened my first restaurant, Jymmanuel Eatery, that year and the first Taiwan Village eatery in 2023.
I never imagined how deeply people would fall in love with Taiwanese food and it’s been humbling to see that passion grow.
What have been some of your greatest achievements and challenges along the way?
Our proudest achievements aren’t trophies – they’re the stories our guests share and seeing people line up outside our stores – rain, cold or scorching heat, it doesn’t matter because they believe the wait is worth it.
Some have said that a dish reminds them of their grandmother or of childhood nights at the market with their father, who is no longer with them. We’ve seen tears, laughter and even shouts of surprise after the first bite.
Others have told us they’ve never tried Taiwanese cuisine before and after dining with us, they were so moved they booked a trip to Taiwan. They came back saying, “Taiwan Village makes food exactly like in Taiwan.” To us, that is the greatest compliment ever.
The challenge lies behind the scenes. Staying true to Taiwan’s flavours in Melbourne isn’t simple – sourcing the right soy, peppers and herbs takes constant effort. But authenticity is everything and every small struggle is worth it when a dish connects so deeply with someone’s heart.
Outside your property/properties, what are your current favourite food joints?
I love exploring Melbourne’s dining scene, especially family-run and small local businesses. Many don’t have big branding or a polished social media presence, but they cook with real heritage and heart.
Inside Footscray Market there’s a pho shop, Thu’s Vietnamese, which I always go back to – the flavours are simple, honest and unforgettable.
Which chefs and cuisines inspire you most – past or present?
I’m inspired by the everyday masters in Taiwan – the night market vendors and small shop cooks who have spent a lifetime perfecting their craft. Their commitment to one dish, one flavour, is a philosophy I try to reflect at Taiwan Village: simple food, done with absolute dedication.
How do you think Australia’s food culture has evolved in recent years?
Australia’s food culture has evolved into one of the most diverse and adventurous in the world. People are eager to explore cuisines beyond the mainstream and they value authenticity more than ever. That evolution has created space for Taiwanese food not just to exist here, but to be celebrated and I believe this is only the beginning.
Any exciting food trends you’ve tried at home – or snuck onto the menu?
Our black pepper beef sizzling noodles have been a highlight – nothing beats the smoky butter aroma and rich pepper sauce rising from the hot plate. With a side of sweet corn soup and a glass of black tea, it feels just like wandering through Taiwan’s night markets.
At home, I like to keep experimenting with braised pork rice – adding spicy mala heat or fruity notes to create new versions of a dish that has always been close to my heart.
And finally, what do you love doing when you’re not in the kitchen/at the venue?
Family is at the centre of everything I do and my team comes next. I treasure the moments of sharing meals, travelling to discover new tastes or slowing down with a quiet tea. But even outside of the restaurant, my mind is often on creating – sketching ideas, shaping concepts or imagining the next chapter of Taiwan Village.
For me, my partner and my team are more than just colleagues – they are part of the story we’re writing together. Even when I switch off, my heart is still leading us forward.
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