Rooted in memories of her grandmother’s cooking and years spent honing technique across kitchens like Quay and Jonah’s, Executive Chef Abby James brings depth and intuition to her role at The Botanica Vaucluse. In this Crumb Wire profile, she reflects on her journey through some of Sydney’s most respected kitchens, the evolution of Australia’s dining landscape, and how the art of fermentation has brought her story full circle.
What first sparked your love for food, and how did you get your start in the industry?
I actually grew up living with my grandmother, and she’s still one of the best cooks I know. She had this amazing way of making everything from scratch – growing her own vegetables and fruit, curing meats, and cooking for the whole family, including my parents, who were working full-time. I was always in awe of her skills and would constantly ask her how she learned to do it all.
She used to tell me stories about growing up with very little, and how she had to learn to cultivate food and pick up essential life skills early on. I think that really stuck with me.
I was always curious about the plants she grew around the house – asking what they were, what they tasted like, and how she used them. I especially loved watching her use native fermentation techniques to preserve and season food, even if I didn’t fully understand it back then.
Looking back, that’s really where my love for food and cooking started – in that backyard garden and kitchen, learning from someone who made magic out of what she had.
What’s been your journey so far – from your first job to where you are now?
I started out as a pizzaiolo at a wine bar that specialised in hand-tossed pizzas and fresh pastas. It was my first real taste of fast-paced kitchen life, working with dough – something I still enjoy to this day.
From there, I joined The Grounds of Alexandria. I started in their pizza outlet and later moved across to the café and restaurant, which gave me the chance to work across different sections and broaden my skill set.
The executive chef at The Grounds at the time – who had mentored one of the co-head chefs at Quay – encouraged me to aim higher and suggested I try to get into Quay. I didn’t think I had much of a shot, but I sent off a cover letter and CV anyway.
A few weeks later, I found myself in the Quay kitchen, starting my first day on the third course section. That experience was a turning point. I really honed my technical skills, discipline, and resilience, pushing myself to come out of that kitchen each day a better chef than the day before.
After Quay, I continued my training at Jonah’s Whale Beach Restaurant, where I deepened my understanding of Italian cooking. From there, I moved to Marramarra Lodge for a more hands-on role, where I reconnected with the fundamentals of cooking – growing, tending, and harvesting produce ourselves to use directly on the menu. That connection to ingredients was incredibly grounding.
Finally, after gaining experience across these incredible kitchens, I joined The Botanica. Here, I’ve been able to bring together everything I’ve learned – my fine dining training, my love for produce, and my passion for creating seasonal, thoughtful menus that shape the dining experience here.
What have been some of your greatest achievements and challenges along the way?
Achievements: One of my proudest moments was representing New South Wales in the National Apprentice Competition, where I earned Bronze medals in both the individual and team categories. That experience really validated the hard work and dedication I’d been putting into my craft.
Another major milestone was stepping into the world of fine dining and securing a role at Quay, one of Australia’s most iconic restaurants. Simply getting my foot in the door there felt like a huge achievement – it marked a turning point in my career and pushed me to raise my standards even higher.
Outside the kitchen, a personal highlight was learning to drive a boat and earning my license while working on the Hawkesbury River. It was such a unique part of the job and pushed me outside my comfort zone in the best way possible.
Challenges: There have definitely been some tough moments along the way. The long, often gruelling hours are part of the reality of professional kitchens. I’ve also faced verbal and mental challenges in certain environments, and at times, being underestimated or overlooked as a female chef was a difficult hurdle to navigate. There were instances when others took credit for my work, and I didn’t always feel empowered to speak up.
But those experiences shaped me – they taught me resilience, self-worth, and the importance of integrity. More than anything, they’ve motivated me to help create a healthier, more respectful kitchen culture for the next generation of chefs coming through.
Outside your property/properties, what are your current favourite food joints?
Some of my current favourite spots around Sydney include The Eight, Bella Brutta, Juan Bowl and Tea, Old Town Hong Kong, Kosta’s Takeaway, Sandoitchi, and a little family-owned Vietnamese gem in Bankstown called My Canh.
Which chefs and cuisines inspire you most – past or present?
Some of the chefs I really look up to are Thomas Keller, Clare Smyth, and Björn Frantzén. I’m drawn to all kinds of cuisines – even the ones I haven’t had much exposure to yet – because there’s always something new to learn.
But the kind of food that inspires me most is the kind that transforms simple ingredients into something memorable. I love dishes that tell a story about the chef behind them, that show clever use of ingredients, sophisticated seasoning, and have that little element of surprise – something that sparks curiosity or conversation at the table.
How do you think Australia’s food culture has evolved in recent years?
Australia’s food culture has evolved tremendously over the past decade. What I find most exciting is how much more produce-driven and culturally diverse it’s become.
There’s a deeper respect now for where ingredients come from – chefs and diners alike are more connected to local farmers, growers, and producers, and that connection shows in the focus on seasonality, sustainability, and regional identity on menus across the country.
At the same time, the food scene has become far more inclusive and globally influenced. There’s an incredible mix of cultures and techniques at play – from traditional European foundations to modern Asian, Middle Eastern, and Indigenous Australian influences – all expressed in a way that feels distinctly Australian.
You also see a growing appreciation for authentic cultural representation, with neighbourhood eateries serving honest, heartfelt Vietnamese, Korean, Middle Eastern, and African cuisines, often run by families sharing their heritage through food.
Parallel to that, there’s a new wave of chefs who are blending tradition with innovation, creating food that’s thoughtful, seasonal, and deeply personal.
I also think the industry has become more aware of wellbeing and kitchen culture – not just what we put on the plate, but how we treat the people behind it. That evolution has been inspiring to witness and even more rewarding to be part of.
Any exciting food trends you’ve tried at home – or sneaked onto the menu?
Lately, I’ve been really inspired by fermentation and preservation. It’s more than just a trend for me – it’s a way to honour produce at its peak and extend its life in a meaningful way.
It also connects me back to my childhood, watching my grandmother work with wild boar gifted by relatives. She’d massage salt crystals into the meat with such care, and I’d sit beside her asking questions, soaking in every detail without even realising how much it would shape me later.
I’ve been experimenting with fermented chilli paste, preserved citrus, and pickled stems – some of which have quietly found their way onto The Botanica’s menu. You’ll find them in sauces, dressings, and garnishes that add layers of depth and brightness.
I’ve also been playing with vegetable-forward dishes that treat produce with the same respect as protein, and unexpected pairings that spark curiosity – like using native herbs in Japanese preservation techniques, or incorporating fermented elements into desserts.
One example is the Gochujang Caramel tucked between Burnt Honey Ice Cream and Earl Grey Foam in the Cereal Milk Pannacotta. It’s subtle, but it catches people off guard in the best way – and that’s the kind of reaction I love. The kind that makes you think, “I didn’t expect that, but I love it.”
And finally, what do you love doing when you’re not in the kitchen/at the venue?
I’m a huge fan of the outdoors – particularly the ocean and the mountains. In my downtime, I love getting outside for hiking, road or trail running, and exploring coastal tracks.
I also really enjoy boxing and train with a PT weekly to stay sharp and energised both physically and mentally. Whenever possible, I plan camping or Tiny Away trips, usually somewhere surrounded by forest, mountains, farmland, or water – anywhere that lets me switch off, reset and reconnect with nature.
Those moments outdoors always bring a fresh sense of clarity and inspiration back into the kitchen.
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