Inspired by his father’s curiosity for food and childhood memories of Footscray’s banh mi and barbecued octopus, Bryan Nelson found his way into kitchens as a teenager. In this Crumb Wire profile, the Ciao Cielo Head Chef reflects on his early kitchen jobs, experience across hatted restaurants and fifteen years of a Melbourne institution. What first sparked your love for food, and how did you get your start in the industry? My Dad was always adventurous when it came to trying new foods, particularly international cuisines. As a child, I distinctly remember how, whenever we drove through Footscray, we’d stop by a particular shop and pick up some barbecued octopus, lightly dusted with a chilli salted spice mix. We’d also frequently enjoy banh mi from Nhu Lan Bakery – this was in the mid-90s, before banh mi became a trendy food, and long before people would line up just to get one like nowadays. My culinary journey began at the age of 15, when I started at a small local restaurant as part of my high school placement. Kitchens can be a chaotic environment for an impressionable young boy. Looking back, I realise that the chef there had quite a big ego. What’s been your journey so far – from your first job to where you are now? During the later years of high school, I worked four or five nights a week at a local pizza shop, often making over 100 pizzas per shift. I enjoyed the challenge of producing a consistent, high-quality product, as well as getting to know the regular clientele. After completing a pre-apprenticeship, I was fortunate to secure my first job at The River Seafood Bar and Grill in Southbank. I’m very grateful to have such supportive parents – they would pick me up from work before I got my licence, especially since we lived out west and the last V/line train left at 9:30 PM. From there, I held positions at numerous hatted restaurants. My chef from The River helped me land a position at Walters Wine Bar, which eventually led me to the Stokehouse upstairs. It was during this time, under the mentorship of Chef Paul Raynor, that the pieces of my culinary journey really began to fall into place. I took on my first head chef job at A La Grecque in Aireys Inlet, where I spent several years enjoying the coastal lifestyle. I then travelled Europe extensively where I fell in love with Italian food and culture. Shortly after returning to Australia, I opened Ciao Cielo with my business partner, marking an exciting new chapter in my career. What have been some of your greatest achievements and challenges along the way? Without a doubt, the greatest achievement has been taking Ciao Cielo from a modest 35-seater on Bay Street, watching it grow in popularity and outgrowing the venue. This led us to relocate the business just down the road to the stunning heritage-listed courthouse that now houses the restaurant. Today, we are proud to be celebrating 15 years of Ciao Cielo. Outside your property/properties, what are your current favourite food joints? I absolutely love Tedesca – the food, the dining room, the service and the grounds. It really is the complete package. Brigitte Hafner’s food is always exceptional – I was a big fan of Gertrude Street Enoteca. For something more casual on my days off, I love a good bowl of pho or laksa. Pho Hung Vuong Saigon in Footscray has the best spring rolls and excellent pho to match. Which chefs and cuisines inspire you most – past or present? In my early years, I was inspired by chefs like Rene Redzepi. I loved reading his books, drawn to his emphasis on technique and his ability to create beautifully simple dishes. He really helped shape the way we plate food today – minimal yet precise. When it comes to cuisine, Italian is without question my favourite. It is truly a beautiful and diverse cuisine, from the abundant seafood dishes of the south to the rich, slow-braised fare of the north and everything in between. Every region of Italy has something that the locals are incredibly proud of and passionate about. I love watching Stanley Tucci: Searching For Italy – he has such a love for Italy and its cuisine and he really does bring out the best in people. The show takes me back to my many trips to Italy and leaves me longing for more. How do you think Australia’s food culture has evolved in recent years? Sustainable and humane farming and fishing practices are now a lot more prominent than when I first started cooking. Even during the recent egg shortages, cage eggs were often left on supermarket shelves, which speaks volumes about how far we’ve come in terms of conscious consumption. The food scene has really come a long way in Australia over the last 20+ years. In the past, shared dining was almost non-existent in restaurants, so I’m delighted to see that change. Sharing is the best way to eat and connect – life is too short to settle for just one or two dishes when you dine out. In Melbourne, we’ve always been blessed with an immense number of international cuisines, and that variety continues to grow. Filipino cuisine has made an emergence over the last few years, and Sri Lankan cuisine is starting to dip its toe in, too. We really are spoilt for choice. Any exciting food trends you’ve tried at home – or snuck onto the menu? While it may not be the most exciting trend to some, it aligns perfectly with my approach to food. At the restaurant, I have started to minimise the amount of seed oils we use, replacing them with extra virgin olive oil, butter, or beef tallow. One of my favourite food quotes comes from Ann Wigmore: “The food you eat can be either the safest and most powerful form of medicine or the slowest…
