From learning to cook beside her mother on a woodfire stove in South Korea to leading the kitchens of Sydney favourites Butchers Buffet, Gyuniku and Shabuway, Joanne Lee has spent more than three decades shaping global dining. She talks to Crumb Wire about her journey through five-star hotels, the influence of her heritage and why Australia’s appetite for bold Asian flavours continues to inspire her work.
What first sparked your love for food, and how did you get your start in the industry?
Food has always been more than just sustenance for me. It’s an experience, a way to bring people together and create lasting memories.
I grew up in a big family, with four brothers and two sisters, and my mother was the heart of it all. She was a farmer and a mother of seven, constantly juggling the demands of the land and her children. Yet somehow, no matter how busy she was, she always managed to create meals that were nothing short of magical.
Everything was cooked over a wood fire stove – you wouldn’t believe the flavours that came out of that kitchen. Within an hour, she’d gather ingredients from our farm or backyard and prepare a full meal: Korean Soybean paste and potato soup, steamed rice, instant Kimchi, yummy side dishes and more. It was quick, but every bite was unforgettable.
To me, she was like a magician. Being by her side in the kitchen felt like being in heaven. From a young age, I was drawn to the art of cooking, and she encouraged that by letting me help with dinner most nights. Those moments became the foundation of my love for food.
That early connection – the warmth, the joy, the sense of togetherness – is what led me to the hospitality industry. Now it’s all about sharing that same feeling with others and seeing their faces light up when they enjoy a meal.
What’s been your journey so far – from your first job to where you are now?
My culinary journey began over 33 years ago in South Korea, where I had the privilege of working in some of the country’s most prestigious hotels, including the Grand Hyatt Seoul, Ritz-Carlton Seoul, and W Seoul. These years gave me a strong foundation in high-end hospitality and fine dining, as well as a deep respect for kitchen discipline, precision, and quality.
In pursuit of broader international experience, I moved to Australia, where I spent the next 20 years refining my skills and expanding my culinary vision. I worked in leading five-star hotels such as The Westin Sydney, Shangri-La Sydney, Sheraton Grand Hyde Park, and InterContinental Sydney, where I had the opportunity to lead diverse teams, develop large-scale banquet operations, and craft menus that fused global techniques with Asian flavours.
In October 2021, I joined Wannian Alliance Hospitality Group, JS Hospitality as Executive Group Chef & Quality Assurance Manager. I currently oversee the culinary operations of multiple thriving brands, including Butchers Buffet, Gyuniku and Shabuway.
My focus is on leading culinary innovation, maintaining consistency across multi-site operations and mentoring the next generation of chefs.
What have been some of your greatest achievements along the way?
Over the course of my career, I’ve been fortunate to achieve several milestones that I’m truly proud of.
One of my most significant achievements was serving as Chef de Cuisine at some of Australia’s top five-star hotels, including Shangri-La Sydney, Sheraton Grand Sydney Hyde Park, and InterContinental Sydney, where I led high-performing kitchen teams and delivered exceptional dining experiences at the highest level.
Another proud moment was co-translating the cookbook ‘Wok’ into Korean, which was later published in Korea. It was a rewarding project that helped bridge culinary knowledge between cultures and share Asian cuisine with a wider audience.
I’ve also been committed to mentoring young chefs through the K-Move program, supporting Korean culinary talent as they train and work overseas. Additionally, I’ve had the honour of serving as a judge in Korean cooking competitions, helping to guide and evaluate the next generation of chefs.
On top of my industry experience, I’ve formally completed training in both Commercial Cookery and Asian Cookery in Australia and Korea, reinforcing my hands-on expertise with strong academic and technical foundations.
Each of these achievements has shaped me into the chef and leader I am today.
Outside your property/properties, what are your current favourite food joints?
Chat Thai in Haymarket – they’re great for authentic Bangkok-style dishes with consistently high-quality flavours. My go-to dishes are the Pad Thai, Tom Yum Goong, Thai Beef Salad and Thai Green Curry with chicken.
For Vietnamese Cuisine, I like Pho Mai in Eastwood. They’ve got a strong tasting, clean broth – served with perfectly crispy pork and their Crispy Pork Chop with Clear Rice Noodle Soup is a must try.
For good Italian food, I love Borrelli’s Italian Restaurant in Epping. They have quite basic and humble dishes done well – and that’s a sign the whole menu will be excellent. It’s family-run, with homestyle Italian food in a warm, authentic setting- super comforting. The classic pastas are delicious and my reason for returning.
For Yum Cha, I like to go to the classic institution ‘Golden Century’. Their Sussex Street location was my regular for over 15 years, before they just recently moved to Barangaroo.
Other than them, the Royal Treasure Seafood Restaurant in Burwood is also really great because they have the classic traditional trolley-style yum cha and live seafood tanks, so you know things are fresh.
Which chefs and cuisines inspire you most – past or present?
My earliest inspiration was my mother, who introduced me to the beauty of authentic, home-style Korean cuisine. Her passion for cooking and the care she put into every dish had a profound impact on me from a young age.
As I entered the culinary industry in the early 1990s in Korea, I was deeply inspired by the senior executive chefs at the luxury hotels where I trained and worked. Their leadership, professionalism, and dedication to excellence left a lasting impression on me. They became my mentors, and I aspired to follow in their footsteps.
At that time, my dream was clear: to one day become an Executive Chef at a five-star, high-end hotel. That goal drove me throughout my career, and I’m proud to say that dream came true
How do you think Australia’s food culture has evolved in recent years?
Australia’s food culture has become incredibly diverse and multicultural, with a growing appetite for authentic international cuisines, especially from Asia. Diners are more adventurous and open to bold, traditional flavours – something that wasn’t as common even a decade ago.
As Executive Group Chef at JS Hospitality, I’ve seen this shift firsthand. Our brands, Butchers Buffet (Korean BBQ Buffet), Gyuniku (Japanese BBQ & Sushi) & Shabuway (Korean-style hot pot Buffet) are all built around delivering authentic yet contemporary Asian dining experiences. It’s been exciting to contribute to this culinary evolution and see how warmly Australian diners embrace these global flavours.
Any exciting food trends you’ve tried at home – or snuck onto the menu?
One interesting experiment I tried during a Korean food competition hosted by the Hansik Foundation was creating Kimchi using Australian local ingredients. I made Kale Kimchi and Gailan (Chinese broccoli) Kimchi, exploring how traditional Korean fermentation techniques could be applied to non-traditional vegetables.
The result was surprisingly delicious! Both Kimchi had unique textures and flavours, offering a fresh twist on a classic Korean dish. It was a great way to connect Korean culinary traditions with Australian produce, and it opened the door to more creative, localised interpretations of Korean food.
Experiments like these are always exciting, and I enjoy introducing subtle, modern touches like this to the menu when the opportunity feels right.
And finally, what do you love doing when you’re not in the kitchen or at the venue?
When I’m not in the kitchen, I enjoy spending my time watching movies, studying foreign languages, and reading, especially books related to economics and personal development. I have a strong interest in learning about investment strategies, including stocks, real estate and cryptocurrency.
I enjoy constantly challenging myself with new knowledge outside of the culinary world. It keeps my mind sharp and helps me grow both personally and professionally.
