
From Here by Mike, the produce-led restaurant within 1 Hotel Melbourne, is bringing a whole-bird dining experience to the 2026 Melbourne Food & Wine Festival.
Titled Farm, Field and Table: The Chicken Dinner, the event is led by Executive Chef McEnearney, who has recently received a Good Food Guide Hat.
Rather than following a conventional menu structure, the dinner is shaped entirely by the bird, with twelve distinct parts of the chicken used across the evening, each prepared according to its natural qualities.
“The bird sets the rhythm,” says McEnearney. “If you’re going to honour a whole animal, you need to respect scale and sequence.
“The smaller, more intricate parts lend themselves naturally to snacks and opening courses, while the larger cuts belong later, when everyone is settled at the table. It’s a very intuitive way to eat – and a very honest way to cook.”
The bird, the whole bird and nothing but the bird
The bones are slowly extracted into a superior consommé enriched with pork hock, bacon and duck. Livers are sautéed and turned into a smooth pâté, piped into choux puffs with Riesling jelly, while hearts are grilled yakitori-style.
The tail is cooked slowly in white master stock before being crisped and finished with numbing salt and pepper. The neck is formed into a sausage, cockscombs are braised with mushrooms and served on French toast, wings are fried Southern-style with hot sauce, and giblets are folded into small pies with leek and soured cream.
At the centre of the table sits the whole pullet, wood-roasted Zuni-style with bread salad and pan juices. McEnearney cites the dish as a direct nod to the late Judy Rodgers of Zuni Café in San Francisco.
“I’ve always believed that less really is more,” he says. “Simple technique, restraint, and a strong focus on flavour and texture, that hasn’t changed. Roast chicken will always be my desert-island meal. Serving a wood-roasted pullet this way is my way of tipping my hat to Judy Rodgers – simple, generous, and deeply satisfying.”
The final course carries the ethos through to dessert, with rendered chicken fat used to make caramel for a dark chocolate tart.
Farm, Field and Table: The Chicken Dinner takes place at From Here by Mike as part of the Melbourne Food & Wine Festival. Tickets are limited.
Source: Modern Currency
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