Now open: Darling Glebe takes over historic Darling Mills site

Source: Supplied

Darling Glebe opens today, February 4, inside one of Sydney’s most storied restaurant sites, taking over the former Darling Mills address on Glebe Point Road.

The new 100-seat brasserie marks chef and restaurateur Jeff Schroeter’s return to the neighbourhood after four decades working across some of the world’s major dining cities.


Set below street level, the venue unfolds across five distinct rooms carved from convict-chipped sandstone, reclaimed heritage brick and vaulted ceilings originally designed by Edmund Blackett for St John’s Church.

Grand, vintage and a bit moody

The space leans into atmosphere and discovery, with each room revealing a different mood, from velvet-wrapped colonnades and vintage crystal to hand-etched glass and a serious kitchen at its core.

Guests can begin or end the night in the Ferrari Martini Lounge, named after Roman-born stonemason Sergio Ferrari, who spent more than a decade excavating and shaping the site by hand.

The lounge anchors the bar program, helmed by award-winning bartender Charlie Ainsbury, with Schroeter’s Chef’s Martini returning to the cocktail list.

The dining room sits beyond a grand hallway, centred around white-clothed wooden tables commissioned more than 30 years ago and crafted from a single, 13-metre coachwood tree.

Surrounding the space are antique crystal decanters and vintage silk Hermès scarves, setting the tone for menus that draw on Schroeter’s time in Michelin-starred kitchens and international dining rooms, including London’s The Savoy, The Royalton Hotel in New York and Sydney institutions Bistro Moncur and Bayswater Brasserie.

Schroeter, who has cooked privately for everyone from the late Queen Elizabeth II to Anna Wintour and Madonna, says Darling Glebe’s menu is the culmination of everything he’s learned.

“It’s 40 years of discipline and instinct moving between kitchens around the world and bringing it home. I’m still on the pans every night because that’s where the joy is for me,” he says.

“Cooking with care and serving people something they’ll enjoy.”

The menu

The menu combines revived historical recipes with long-standing signatures, including a 130-year-old oyster Rockefeller, escargot en cocotte with a puff pastry lid, strawberry foie gras, and duck à l’orange finished with an orange-kumquat glaze, all paired with Archie Rose Sunrise Lime Gin. Much of the produce is sourced from Darling Mills Farm, still owned and operated by the Adey family, with inspiration also drawn from the farm’s 35-year-old cookbook.

On Wednesday and Thursday nights, Schroeter offers a French omakase-style Chef’s Table for up to four guests. The experience is shaped around diners’ preferences and the most special produce available on the day, often ingredients too rare or fleeting for the main menu.

“On quieter nights, it’s such a pleasure to take the time to talk to guests, understand their palate and their threshold for experimentation, and create something completely for them,” Schroeter says.

“The thrill is in the creativity and sharing the stories with the table, whether it’s one person dining solo or a close-knit group.”

The wine program spans classic, food-driven styles alongside cellar-worthy icons, with Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve as the house champagne. Downstairs, a purpose-built wine cave with capacity for up to 2,800 bottles sits within the Adey Private Wine Cellar, an intimate function space for up to 60 guests. Upstairs, the Dybka Room offers seating for eight and features two original etched-glass windows by Anne Dybka OAM.

Not everything is announced. Some details are left to be discovered, from 100-year-old hand-painted art deco bread plates to vintage Hermès Papillon bow ties worn by the waitstaff.

“The bow ties aren’t really a uniform,” Schroeter says. “They’re a wink, a little something that lets people smile when their waiter arrives at the table.”

Darling Glebe is open from 5 pm Wednesday to Sunday, with lunch service from noon on Fridays.

Source: Wine Glass Media

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Pallavi Mathur

pallavim9893@gmail.com

Pallavi Mathur is the founder and editor of Crumb Wire. She cut her teeth in PR before turning her lifelong passion for food into a full time gig. Pallavi brings readers a daily digest of what's hot in food and drink, covering restaurants, retail and features rooted firmly in food culture.

https://crumbwire.com/

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